When we first started this process I read somewhere that doing an egg retrieval in the summer months, when you spend more time outside and in the sun, helps produce healthier eggs. I am hoping that is true!
We spent today exploring the beautiful Thessaloniki. It was supposed to be over 95 Degrees the whole day but we lucked out that it was cloudy most of the day so it was a plesant adventure. We started off the adventure by taking the bus, our first time in Thessaloniki!
Thessaloniki Bus System
The bus system is great, especially compared to most public bus systems in the U.S. Here were a few helpful tips to get around:
Use the Moovit App – it shows you routes nearby and will act like a Google Maps of busses, showing you where to get on and off and at what time
You can pay for tickets on the bus. I was a bit worried we would be obvious foreigners if we did this, but the kiosk to pay was right behind the driver for the single car bus and in the middle for the double car bus. It was easy to put the change in and pay.
The bus kiosk does not give back change. Either make sure you are collecting change to use or be ready to lose the excess money you put in. The bus also only takes coins – no bills or card.
Validate your ticket. Once you purchase your ticket there is a little box nearby you insert your ticket it and it will stamp the ticket – we watched someone else do it first to know how to do it.
Stand up early. When you are about one or two stops away from where you are going to get off, stand up and start to move towards the door. Especially if it is not a very popular stop, you will save yourself having to rush through a crowded bus and risking not making it off the bus.
Hold On. The bus drivers take off pretty fast and take curves even faster. I was caught off guard a few times and thankfully didn’t end up falling – but it was close.
What to See in Thessaloniki, Greece
There are countless guides on the things to see in Thessaloniki and things to eat – I personally would recommend the official Thessaloniki Travel Guide – it has a variety of options to suite every type of traveler.
I used this travel guide and some information I found online to put together a mini tour of the monuments and touristy things.
The Roman Forum of Thessaloniki
Olympou 75, Thessaloniki 546 31
This was our first stop on our self-guided tour. I must confess, my favorite movie is “My Life in Ruins” so I really wanted to see some ruins. This was a great place to start. It did not look like much from a distance, but that is because the actual site is dug into the earth below ground level. Kai and I spent a long time here contemplating Roman occupation and the fate of the gladiators that fought here.
The Rotunda
Platia Agiou Georgiou Rotonta 5, Thessaloniki 546 35
We actually paid to go into this one to see it (I was hoping it had a bathroom, it did not, but was still worth it). It cost 6 Euros per person and included a walk into the Rotunda, around it’s grounds, and a short video in a media center.
The building itself is impressive, the history is even more interesting. Between swapping hands between the Roman Emperor Galerius (the original builder) to Christian churches, to a mosque, then back to a Christian church and now finally a national monument that is used for churchy things on occasion – it is honestly amazing this place is still standing. The history behind it was our first glimpse into the history of Thessaloniki – a place that has seen Roman rule, Ottoman Rule, Christianity, Jewish, Muslim Influences and from what it seems a connection between the Mediterranean and the Middle East. The Turkish and Middle Eastern Influences are just as evident as the traditional Roman-Greco Influences – it is fascinating.
The Arch of Galerius
Egnatia 144, Thessaloniki 546 22
After a quick bathroom stop (went to a local cafe and asked poo ee-ne ee too-ah-leh-ta), we found we ran into the Arch of Galerius quite unexpectedly. This was not really a planned part of our self guided tour but was a very welcome addition.
The Palace of Galerius
Pl. Navarinou, Thessaloniki 546 22
This dude – he came to Thessaloniki temporarily and they built him a palace. How crazy is that? Although, I don’t know for sure but maybe it was something like the Olympics is – a huge international ceremony that everyone wants to put their best food forward for? Regardless, we were a bit tickled by the notion of building a house for a temporary visit.
Agia Sofia
Agias Sofias, Thessaloniki 546 22
I wanted to visit here because it is one of the oldest churches in the city – dating back to the 4th century – and because of the name. I have always wanted to name my daughter Sophia – The Wisdom of God. Plus, this was another structure that passed hands between Christians and Muslims, which is fascinating to me. It was beautiful, but very strange to think of as a place to meet with God. Both Kai and I are a bit more relaxed in our relationship with God – treating it as a intimate friendship to be experienced in the day to day normal and mundane. This was something completely different – very formal, very beautiful, but to our traditions feeling very stiff and distant. Going through Exodus I have been reading about the building of the Tabernacle and wondering why God wanted something so formal, so ornate maybe? That seems odd to my way of thinking as well – but after some more thinking I think it is an important reminder that God is still God – a Holy and BIG God that is able to do what He has willed.
I think in the day to day, it is easy to forget this. Easy to forget that God is Big and Immovable and has a nature that demands awe and respect – similar to a mountain or an ocean, not so much like a dictator as I would tend to think.
With that, I think it is important to remember that God met with Moses and the Israelite leaders on the mountain He created just as surely as He met with Moses in the tabernacle the Israelites made.
The Port of Thessaloniki
Confession – I really want to see one of the Greek Islands, but I can find 0 information online about how to take a Ferry to the ones located nearby.
So we went to where on the map it said “Ferry Port” which turned out to be inside the historic passenger terminal on the port. We followed signs to “Purchase Ferry Tickets”, the office seemed a bit confused that we walked in to ask about ferrys, I get the feeling that people normally called, but they were very helpful and told us it is about 50 Euros per person one way to one of the islands about 5 hours away. Too much and too far for this trip, but hopefully for the next time we are here for an embryo transfer (hopefully) we can maybe see a Greek Island! I got their number, so next time I can just call.
White Tower
I specifically saved this stop for last because it seems like the place that Thessaloniki is known for. It is an imposing structure looking out over the water. The walk from the port to White Tower was amazing – along the water and with a clear view of the ships. This was another place we paid 6 Euros per person to see the inside and tour the building. The construction of the building itself is hard to parse out – it seems like it was built by the Ottomans during their time of power and there was also another structure it its place beforehand. From then on it is filled with history as a place of battle, war, prison, and somehow also hope. I like the way the Greek Tourist site put it:
A watchful sentry guarding over the precious city of Thessaloniki for the Ottomans, then a place of imprisonment for unconquerable spirits.
visitgreece.gr
Today – this is a museum and a monument to the people and History of Thessaloniki. You climb circular stairs along the inside walls and there are 6 floors of history to be learned. It is all in Greek but they have an audio tour and free Wifi so you can use Google Translate to read all of the exhibits.
This was a great place to end our tour because it highlighted what we have already been learning about Thessaloniki. This is a place who has seen many rulers – From the founder Kassandros who named the city after his wife, Alexander The Great’s Half-Sister, to being conquered by the Romans, to being divided into the Byzantine Empire, to capture by the Ottomans, to becoming a part of Greece, to occupation by the Nazi state, to finally forming into the Thessalinki of today I see a city that steadily presses on.
I don’t quite have words for it but it reminds me of a slave that would slowly and smartly undermine the authority of their master. Never truly a slave or oppressed because they were shifting the ground in their favor.
This steady, ocean-wave-like rebellion holds true to Thessalonliki today. You see signs and grafitti everywhere – opposing fascism and upholding this spirit of freedom and resistance to power. Truthfully, this push for freedom and resistance is a lot more at home here where they bear the scars of these struggles, than in the United States where we spout the same ideas without the extensive history to back it up.
It is a truly beautiful place. I say all of this in deep respect of this city and this people, I hope I have not offended anyone by my limited view and perspective.
Lastly, I wanted to include some pictures of additional sites we saw while wandering around the city.
